(I understand it’s silly to duplicate this here. I just have a fear that this content will disappear from the forums.)

Read the FAQ before posting!

There is not a converter for using a TE on a system other than the one it was designed for.

There is no USB to anything older. No USB to PS2, Dreamcast, etc. You must mod your stick with a MC Cthulhu or a second PCB.

If you want a stick that works on both Xbox 360 and PS3 (And PS2, Dreamcast, etc.) get a PS2 stick like a HRAP or Namco. You can then use converters to adapt it to various systems.

You can not plug a random USB controller or converter into either the Xbox 360 or PS2. The Xbox 360 only works with Xbox controllers due to its security scheme. The PS2 was never designed to accept it.

The PS3 can use HID compliant (driverless) USB controllers for PS3 and PS1 games (not PS2). This makes the USB Saturn pads worth getting. Beware of bootlegs.

The PS1 Dual Shock has the best compatibility with converters. If you are building a custom stick then these are the way to go. The original, non-analog controllers have problems with most converters and are not recommended if you can avoid them.

Most custom PS1/PS2 sticks were made with Sony PCBs. When submitting a compatilibility report open your stick and see what kind of pad is inside. The Dual Shock pads have analog sticks. The original Digital pads do not.

There are three versions of the SFAC stick. Unscrew the bottom of the case to check the PCB before purchasing an adapter. Check next to the system cable for the voltage. It will read either 3.5V 7.5V or 8V. This number is indicated in the listing below whenever possible.

Please test your converter if it can be connected to a PC:

If you purchase a converter that’s USB (PS2 to PS3, etc.) and want to test it for lag (on Windows) then download this application developed by SRK member Colac. It’s straightforward to use once you get the hang of it.

Quote:

To accurately test your adapter/converter, you need to:

1) Turn off vertical sync in your graphics card settings.

2) Using a key on your keyboard to run through the program once and record down the input lag time from your keyboard.

3) Plug your gamepad and stick through the adapter that you want to test into your PC. Then, use programs like (xpadder) to map a button on your gamepad or stick to the SAME key that you tested in step one. Run the program and record down the input lag again.

4) Subtract the two results you got from previous steps. If the difference is less than 2 ms (i.e., stick input lag – keyboard input lag <= 2ms), then your adapter can be considered as lag free.

PS2 to PS3/USB

Note: Sony is at it again with 3.5. The Real and HAIS are reportedly done for.

The 2.7 firmware update rendered the Sumoto and TAC adapters unusable with the PS3. This was corrected with 2.8. I’m hesitant to recommend them in light of this but they are working again.

The majority of these converters should also work on a PC without drivers (InPin, Pelican). If you only care about PC compatibility then the Super Joy Box 3 Pro was highly recommended. It does not work on the PS3.

*Recommended* InPin: This is the best option that’s readily available. It’s sold by exclusively by SRK member laugh. Visit his eTokki shop to order one.

Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS, MAS, HRAP Series, Namco PS1, SFAC 3.5

Incompatible with: SFAC 8V?, certain PS1 Digitals

*Recommended* Pelican: People claim that these are the only adapter to feature code from Sony. They have excellent compatibility with the exception of PS1 digital PCBs. They’re by far the most expensive ($50+) but can occasionally be found used at GameStop for a few dollars.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, HRAP 2, SFAC 3.5, Namco PS1, Saulabi

Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, SFAC 7.5V

HVG2: These are reportedly a good converter if your stick has a analog capabilities; like a custom with a PS1 DS. It will not work with a digital PCB like most consumer sticks have (HRAP).

Compatible With: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, Hori Fighting Stick, SFAC 3.5V, 7.5V

Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Namco PS1, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2, SFAC Pad

Reviews: Riotblade

DragonPlus: There were conflicting reports on this adapter. Most of its owners reported it as lagless. Press Up+Select for Home.

Compatible with: HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1

Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Tekken 5 stick

Cablesforpc: This is the one to get for owners of the SFAC stick with an 8V PCB. It allows two PS2 controllers to be connected.

Compatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, 8V, HRAP 1

Incompatible with: SFAC 7.5V

Reviews: Annihilationscape

Sumoto: These were reported as the best adapter for Sony digital PCBs (original pads without analog sticks). A few users have claimed they’re lagless, and I haven’t seen a negative review on them yet.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, Tekken 5, Pelican Universal, Pelican PS2, Ascii PS1, SFAC Pad

Incompatible with:

TAC: These were reported to work well with SFAC and HRAP series. MarkMan and others reported that it has issues so I would avoid it in favor of something else. Hold Analog for Home.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA

Incompatible with: PS1 Digital

Real (Incompatible with 3.5): These were once all the rage but are now discontinued. They notably do not work with PS2 DS controllers.

Compatible with: PS1 DS, HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1, SFAC, SFAC Pad

Incompatible with: PS2 DS

Hais (Incompatible with 3.5): These reportedly work well and include a PS2 memory card reader. They have taken Sumoto’s place as a solid/budget converter. Press Analog or Up+Select for XMB. Hold Up+Select for Home.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC, SFAC pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1, Tekken 5

Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Pelican Universal

Reviews: Canto

PS2/3 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* Controller Converter Pro by Blaze (?): This is an unmarked converter that is similar in appearance to the Blaze PS2-360. It notably does not require a 360 controller for passthrough. It reportedly works well with a HRAP3 and features similar compatibility to the Blaze.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS3 DS3, HRAP3, HRAP2, Namco T5, SFAC Pad

Incompatible with: MadCatz TE and SE, Pelican Universal

PS2 to Xbox 360

These converters require a wired 360 controller to bypass Microsoft’s security scheme. A wireless controller with a Play & Charge cable will not work. Read Ikagi-chan’s post for more information.

*Recommended* Xconverter 360 by Joytron: These are the best and thankfully least expensive option for using a PS2 controller on the 360. It’s Korean made and sold by SRK member laugh who brought us the InPin. Analog = Home.

Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, MAS, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller

Incompatible with:

Reviews: laugh, Ikagi-chan, Gamecop

*Recommended* BlazePro: These Hong Kong converters can be had for $10 on eBay. They are basically superseded by the PS3 to 360 converter listed above.

Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller, Saturn PS2 pad, Blaze Twin Shock

Incompatible with:

Reviews: Source thread

Max Shooter by Mayflash: These work great except for an issue with simultaneous key presses. Pressing corresponding buttons, for example: Right+Circle will cause the converter to freeze until another button is pressed.

Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP 1, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1

Incompatible with: HRAP 2, SFAC 8V

XFPS by XCM: There are a few revisions of this adapter but I can’t recommend it at all. It reportedly lags and/or drops input even with a real Sony PS1 or PS2 controller. The OP repeatedly trashes them earlier on in the thread. There are 10 negative posts for every positive I could find. Read this, this, this, this, this, and this before deciding to spend your money on one of these.

Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS

Incompatible with: Namco PS1, HRAP 2

Xbox 360 to PS3

Cross Battle Adapter by XCM: MarkMan confirmed that this drops inputs similar to the XFPS. People with 360 sticks should look into adding a Cthulhu PCB (Photos) for PS3 compatibility.

Compatible with:

Incompatible with:

PS2 to DC

*Recommended* Total Control Plus: These are usually recommended since they’re readily available. Toggle the switches on it to change the triggers.

Compatible with: Sony DS 2, HRAP, HRAP 2, SFAC, Tekken 5

Incompatible with: Some MAS sticks

*Recommended* Dream Connection 2 by Innovation (original URL, sold out): These as reportedly the best converters but are expensive and hard to come by. The SFAC Pad isn’t recommended because it treats L1 and R1 (the HP/HK buttons) as the same button.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2/SA, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2

Incompatible with: SFAC 8V

PS2 to GameCube/Wii

*Recommended* Cube JoyBox Pro by Mayflash: These are the most commonly recommended converters for GC. They work with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom on Wii.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA, MAS, Namco PS1, Tekken 5, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Controller

Incompatible with:

Magic Path II by EMS: These apparently work equally as well as the Cube JoyBox. They’re also reported to work fine with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, HRAP

Incompatible with:

Game Elements (eBay): This is the converter I’ve happily used for years. It works great on the GameCube/Wii as well as the Xbox. ArcadeStickMonk used it as well.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 2 SA, MAS

Incompatible with: PS1 Digital (works on Xbox) SFAC 8V, Tekken 5 (Works on Xbox), SFAC Controller

PS2 to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: These are lag free and the Saturn port is awesome. It went completely nuts when I plugged in my PS1 DS stick.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP, HRAP 2 SA

Incompatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC Pad, SFAC 8V

*Recommended* Game Elements: These work very well. See the GameCube section above.

Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2 SA, MAS, Tekken 5

Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Directional issues w/3rd Strike

X-Connection by Innovation: I would think the Innovation name would guarantee this one a winner, but it reportedly doesn’t work with certain games or the HRAP 2.

Compatible with:

Incompatible with: HRAP 2

PS2 to Saturn, SNES, etc.

A company called ToToTEK makes a wide variety of PS2 to classic system adapters. There’s one for 3DO, Neo-Geo, Famicom (NES), FC2003 (?), Saturn, GameCube, SNES, PC Engine (TurboGrafx-16), and Genesis (Mega Drive). They reportedly work well from everything I’ve read.

Saturn to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: This works great with an official Sega pad. There isn’t a Select button for Insert Coin but some Xbox emulators like FB Alpha allow it to be remapped. Only problem is that they’re hard to find.

Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad

Incompatible with: Nights Analog Pad

Saturn to PS2

*Recommended* Keiō Console Converters: These are a godsend for people wanting to use their Saturn pads on other systems. They can be chained to other converters for use on the Xbox 360, PS3, etc.

Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad, HSS-0130

Incompatible with:

Xbox to USB (Not PS3)

The original Xbox uses a USB connector with a funky male end. Female Xbox to male USB adapters can be had on eBay for a few dollars. No conversion is necessary. This reportedly works fine for the SFAC stick.

Xbox 360 to USB (Not PS3)

Xbox 360 sticks/controllers work fine on Windows using Microsoft’s drivers. They’re available for both 32-bit and 64-bit.

(I understand it’s silly to duplicate this here. I just have a fear that this content will disappear from the forums.)

Welcome to Tech Talk.

This section of the forums is for the discussion of arcade sticks, hardware, repair, computers, etc. There’s an exhaustive amount of information here. People can and will give you grief if you don’t inform yourself before posting. Please take a moment to search before you post. It’s extremely likely that your question has been asked before.

We have an IRC chat room where many of our regulars lurk (#srktt on efnet). Feel free to stop by for real-time tech support. If you aren’t familiar with IRC then you can use a web based Flash client called Mibbit. This will allow you to join the room without installing any software on your PC.

1. Browse to Mibbit chat network

2. Click Start Chatting Now

3. Change the IRC dropdown to EFNET [webirc]

4. Enter your nick and use #srktt for the Channel

5. Click Go

Rules:

- Search Before Posting! Visit Google and format your search like this:

site:shoryuken.com square gate

- Respect intellectual properly. Do not provide links to roms, pirated material, game data, cracks. If you’re hesitant to post it then don’t. It’s not worth a ban.

- Tech Talk is not the appropriate forum for selling. Visit the Trading Outlet if you are eligible to sell. Misguided threads will be moved and/or locked.

- Please downvote spam and stupid threads. This will get them locked much quicker.

- Do not quote images. Remove the IMG tags from your reply or just leave the URL.

- Technique questions do not belong here. If you can’t pull off a move practice it until you can.

- Tech Talk is not Image Mismatch. This is not the appropriate section to request art.

- Read Slagcoin.com. It will make you less dumb.

Stickies:

These represent the best that the forum has to offer. Please don’t be offended if your thread is unstuck and listed here. We had a legitimate request for another sticky and decided to go this route instead.

Art’s Arcade Stick Plexiglass Covers

European Plexi Cutting

Tips for improving online connectivity

Installing an MC Cthulhu and Imp in an Xbox 360 SF4 SE stick

The New Definitive HDTV Lag FAQ

General:

Computer Freeware Thread – Recommendations / Reviews!

Recent Purchases and Good Finds

Arcade Stick Stock Availability (Post updates here)

The TE/SE Fighstick Template Thread Categorised by Character/Theme

MadCatZ PS3 TE FightStick: PC – Xp- vista- win7 32-64bit

Post pictures of your SF/entertainment setup!

The New Definitive HDTV Lag FAQ

Converter Compatibility Thread

2 PCB’s in one stick – Possible?

The Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ

*The “padhacking” thread*

Look here before asking about what type of stick you should use!

If you want to buy a custom arcade stick….

Tutorials:

Installing a Madcatz 4716 pad and Imp into a PS3 TE Stick

Dual modding 101

Project Box Controllers: A Guide to Modular Controllers

RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2

RJ-45 MC Cthulhu+ IMP+ Xbox 360 Dual Mod Tutorial Diagram

Adding an Optical ASCII Stick to a Namco Joystick

Honcam Mod (First Tutorial/Mod) with Free and Easy Mod Tutorial

RJ45 Detachable Cables – How To

How to : Add Custom Art to your TE fightstick and swap simple options

How to padhack an 08/09 Madcatz 4716 Common Ground Xbox 360 Pad

Tips for improving online connectivity

DIY sixaxis adapter FULL GUIDE

Installing an MC Cthulhu and Imp in an Xbox 360 SF4 SE stick

The how to mod your SFIV SE Fightstick FAQ

Modding a Saturn Pad for 360 or PS2

HRAP 2 Modding Tutorial

doa4 mod tutorial (photo galore D:)

ArcadeStickMonk’s SFAC Happ Tutorial

Guide: How to put art under clear Seimitsu buttons

Hori Real Arcade Pro FAQ for all versions

DIY: Happ Perfect 360 Joystick on XBOX 360

How to make the Hori FightingStick EX2 work on Windows

Article: Capturing HQ Video

Customs:

The Wood Workers Thread

How to paint MDF to a mirror finish worklog

The “Everything about building your own custom stick thread” thread.

The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread II: A New Era of Builders

Building Materials for Custom Sticks – Info Thread

Light-up on activation button mod tutorial

How to solder Guide (PCB edition!)

EPE “Basic Soldering Guide”

Spiffyshoes Solderless A Series Hack

How to make a Wii arcade stick

How to flush mount a Neutrik NAUSB into a wooden case.

Misc:

Ultimate Guide To Holding Japanese Balltop Joysticks!

Universal PCB (eventually) thread

The Stick template/Layout thread

Hori Fighting Stick 3 on PC

Official Sanwa mod thread

The IL FAQ/Information thread

Saulabi thread

MadCatz T.E. FightStick Differences.

http://shoryuken.com/f322/srk-newbie-saikyo-dojo-arcade-stick-faq-read-before-asking-questions-231888/

Shops:

Akihabara Shop (Japan)

Lizard Lick Amusements (USA)

Rollie Electronics (USA)

Gremlin Solutions (UK)

Starcab (France)

Arcadeshop (Germany)

Links:

Slagcoin (Highly recommended)

Joystick Vault

Here’s the result of a project I’ve been wanting to do for a while. It requires that you hack up a Saturn and 360 or PS2 controller for use with a project box. Check out the YouTube Video.

Note: This has ‘evolved’ from when I originally posted it. I recommend reading the entire post and especially the OCD method before following the original steps.

Supplies:
Saturn Model 2 Controller
PS1 Dual Shock or Digital Controller/Mad Catz 360 Common Ground Controller
DB-15 10FT M:F Cables from MonoPrice.com or SF cable.com. The cables from SF Cable are slightly thinner and work better if you plan to keep the rubber controller nub intact.
Dremel with Drill and Grinding Attachments (Came with my 300 series)
15 Watt Soldering Iron and Solder
Radio Shack Project Box
Radio Shack Nippy Cutters (Flush Cutters)
Small Zip-Ties from Wal-Mart
Patience…

Prep the Saturn Pad

1. Snip the Saturn cord and pray that fire does not rain down from heaven for the sin you’ve committed.
2. Remote the IC (little black board below the holes) using ‘Nippy Cutters’ from Radio Shack. There are certainly better ways of doing this, but we’re going for easy here. You can also dremel the legs off but you’re more likely to screw something up.
3. Use your dremel with the small drill bit to make the Mickey Mouse holes shown in the picture. The top two are the normal size it makes which is perfect for a small zip-tie. For the larger hole I used the same bit and then widened it with the little blue grinding attachment. You may want to practice this on another board first.
4. Use a razor blade or Exacto knife to scrape the copper pads I have boxed in. These are what we will be soldering to.

Route the Cable in and Zip Tie

5. Strip the DB-15 cable roughly 3 inches and route it through the largest hole. Run a zip tie through the front so that the little nub is on the back of the board. Push the nub to the side like shown in picture three. Use needle nose pliers to pull it extra tight. Give the cable a tug to make sure that it won’t come loose.

Check the Diagram and Solder the Saturn Pad

Edit: The original directions are below. I’m now doing these what I call OCD style. Here are the alternate steps for that which are preferable:

A. Drill 1/16th holes at these points.
B. Scrape the perimeter of the holes to expose enough copper for the solder to fall on.
C. Route the cables through the holes and trim their excess.
D. Strip the wires slightly and solder them down through the top.

6. Route the cables like I have them unless you’re feeling brave. I’ve obsessively rearranged those until the controller felt stock. If you put them where they shouldn’t go then the buttons/dpad will feel mushy when it’s assembled. Note that the X button was moved over because it felt mushy when it was using the placement that it is expected to go.

Prep the Host System Pad

7. This is straight up pad hacking. It doesn’t matter what the intended system is (360, PS2, etc.) as long as it’s common ground. On the PS pads, scrape off the black coating and tin those points. You’ll regret it if you try using the copper pads.

Solder the Host Pad

8. Solder the host pad using the same coloring scheme that you did the Saturn pad. A = X, B = Circle, etc. Snip 9 inches from the db-15 and strip 3 inches for the cable in the project box.

Prep the Project Box

9. Use the dremel and the brown grinding nub to make cable indentions in the box (also see photo 9). Make sure they’re toward the edge like shown in the picture.

10. Use the dremel and drill bit to drill a small holes for zip ties to go through the project box. This will keep people from tugging on the cables.

Place the Host Pad in the Project Box

11. Run the db15 and host controller cables out the side of each of your indentions. Loop around the host systems cable to the desired length. Zip-tie both cables to the case.

Close Her Up

12. This is what it should look like when completed. Go plug it in and pwn some scrubs (like me) with your badass Saturn dpad.

We had a great run with the Team Tech Talk Shirts! (If you want your photo removed just let me know.)

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WildWon

This tutorial will give you a rough overview of adding an ASCII optical joystick to an old school Namco PlayStation joystick. It is an intermediate level project that requires soldering and dremeling. Both the Namco and ASCII joysticks are expensive at this point. I wouldn’t advise touching a Namco stick unless you are fairly confident in your skills.

None of this would have been possible without the the work of kowal and ArcadeStickMonk. Check out their tutorials for additional help:

http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/modNAMCOen.htm
http://srktt.com/namco

Admire your lovely Namco stick in its unaltered form.

Flip it over and unscrew the six back screws. Unlike many other sticks, the screws are fully visible and do not require removing the rubber feet. You will see this inside.

Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the ball top from the joystick. Insert it into the base of the stick and twist the ball off of the top.

Unscrew the four screws that are securing the joystick. It will pop right out.

Using a soldering iron and solder sucker, desolder the twelve points securing the buttons to the PCB. Once the solder has been sufficiently removed the PCB will pop off of the buttons. If it doesn’t budge there’s more solder to suck.

Once the PCBs are fully removed you will be left with the buttons.

Using your finger and a flat head screwdriver when necessary, remove the buttons by gently pressing the tabs that hold them in place.

Your stick will be fully gutted at this point.

Use a torx screwdriver bit to remove the top plate.

Dremel enough room for the joystick to mount flat to the case. Do not cut the original screw posts just yet.

Secure the ASCII base to the original screw posts. It would be nice if these could be used but they cannot due to clearance issues with the ASCII PCB.

Using the Dremel drill bit, drill through the holes on the wings of the ASCII base.

It should come out something like this.

Cut off the screw posts so the ASCII base can sit flat.

Insert the Dremel grinding bit into the screw holes. Use a slow speed to counter-sink enough room for the new screws. Take care not to grind completely through. This will allow the top plate to sit flat without a bulge.

Mount the joystick to the case using new screws, washers and nuts. I used #6-32 x 1″ flat head slotted screws and flat washers #8. These cost me all of $1.50 at Home Depot.

Replace the ASCII PCB and octo gate. The two nubs on the gate will need to be dremeled off in order for the case to close.

All of the tutorials I’ve seen use the Namco actuator in place of the original. This will not work with the ASCII PCB. The Namco actuator will not register diagonals. Dremel down the ASCII to be a similar height.

I ended up using the Namco shaft, spring, e-clip and dust cover. The pivot, actuator and gate came from the ASCII. You can use the ASCII spring but I found the Namco to be less mushy. A JLF square gate can also be used in place of the ASCII octo gate.

Replace the original PCBs and re-solder the buttons to the PCB. The ASCII joystick requires 3.3v for power. You can get this from the base of the PCB directly above the yellow wire. I used a terminal strip for trial and error.

For the joystick wiring you have from top to bottom:

Ground
Right
Ground
Down
Ground
Left
Ground
Up

Only one of the grounds is required. I used the red one since it was at the bottom.

Once everything is properly connected you will be ready to rock.

Reattach the back plate and admire your work.

Yesterday I picked up one of the old PS2 Street Fighter 15th Anniversary controllers for $2. I plugged her in for converter testing and immediately realized that the dpad was as bad as I remembered from owning one for Xbox. Diagonals do not register consistently, if at all. You would have thought they could have given this thing 5 minutes of play time on the game this was intended for.

Anyhow, I cracked this bad boy open and started playing around with it. I tried swapping the rubber dpad contact pad from a Sony pad and a Saturn pad. Both changed the feel of the dpad completely, but did not address the issue. Diagonals still sucked. I then thought back to my old friend, the PSP/Xbox 360 dpad fix which worked beautifully.

Find a piece of clear plastic to use as a cutout. I used some clam shell packaging that was laying on the floor from a dremel attachment. The idea here is that it needs to be pretty thin. Use a sharpie and roughly trace the inside of the dpad. Cut it out and stab a hole through the middle using a small phillips screwdriver.

Make sure that it fits cleanly into the surroundings. I had to re-trim mine a few times for a good fit.

Now reassemble the controller and you’re ready to roll. Diagonals should come out easily.

“You’re Winnar!”